My WebLink
|
Help
|
About
|
Sign Out
Home
Browse
Search
07-26-21-SWS
ArdenHills
>
Administration
>
City Council
>
City Council Packets
>
2020-2029
>
2021
>
07-26-21-SWS
Metadata
Thumbnails
Annotations
Entry Properties
Last modified
7/22/2021 2:17:50 PM
Creation date
7/22/2021 2:17:22 PM
Metadata
Fields
Template:
General
There are no annotations on this page.
Document management portal powered by Laserfiche WebLink 9 © 1998-2015
Laserfiche.
All rights reserved.
/
29
PDF
View images
View plain text
chickenrunrescue.org Page 6 9/14/15 <br /> <br />-‐”Poultry Your Way: A Guide to Management Alternatives for the Upper Midwest”, Minnesota <br />Department of Agriculture, 2005 <br /> <br />COOP: The house, closed structure or enclosed room which provides shelter from cold, heat, wind, rain, <br />snow and predators for protected roosting, nesting, feeding and watering space. <br />Construction & Materials – Coops can be purchased ready made or in kits, constructed within an <br />existing structure or built from scratch. Local building codes should be followed to prevent damage from <br />snow, wind, etc. NOTE: rabbit hutches, plastic igloos, dog houses and such are not appropriate <br />structures. <br />Required features: <br />size: 4 sq. feet of floor space minimum is required per bird for the interior (an area 2 ft. x 2 ft. per bird). <br />So 4 birds will need a coop with at least 4 feet x 4 feet inside floor space not including nest boxes. <br />Outside dimensions should be about 5 feet by 5 feet x 6 ft. high. Overcrowding is the most common <br />cause of behavior problems, injury and disease. Coop should be high enough for a human to stand up <br />comfortably for cleaning, maintenance and egg collection. It also allows for additional roosting. <br />Temperament and social structures should be taken into account, and partitions should be available for <br />birds who are sick, injured or lower in the pecking order. <br />access to electricity is required in free standing structures. <br />floor – The floor should not collect and hold moisture, be easy to clean, retain heat in cold weather and <br />exclude rodents/predators. A dirt floor draws heat away and is not easy to clean or rodents/predators <br />proof. A wood floor is adequate provided it is at least a foot off the ground, insulated and sealed <br />properly but is difficult to sanitize because it is porous. a concrete floor is ideal since it discourages <br />rodents/predators and ids easy to sanitize. Regardless of the floor type, bedding strewn on the surface is <br />needed is to absorb moist fecal matter and facilitate cleaning. Leaves or wood shavings work best and <br />can be composted or easily bagged and disposed of as solid waste. <br />walls-‐ Materials that are resistant to moisture and mold and easily cleaned are best. Chemically treated <br />materials should be nontoxic. A good compound with anti fungal agents is good for humid areas. Clear <br />varnish is also good. Everything should be treated or painted before it is assembled. Wooden structures <br />should be draft free and built with double walls that have at least 1 1/2 inch insulated layer between <br />them. <br />roof: The coop roof should be made of a material that will not collect and hold heat and should be built <br />with double walls that have at least 1 1/2 inch insulated layer between them. The roof surfaced should <br />be covered with an insulating tar paper to protect from heavy rains. The roof should be slightly inclined, <br />to allow water to run off and if it overhangs at the front wall it will protect from downpours. A few small <br />openings along the eaves allow moisture to escape and provide fresh air. <br />doors: One human-‐size door is needed for daily access. Doors for chickens should be just large enough <br />for the largest bird and can be positioned anywhere from ground level to about 2 feet high with a stable <br />ramp with cleats. Chickens are ground dwellers, not parrots-‐small doors at heights greater than 3 feet <br />with flimsy, unstable ladders are not appropriate. Doors must be able to be secured against predators at <br />night. <br />windows: Chickens love windows and need natural light. Double glaze for warmth. Cover with 1/2” <br />metal screen so they can be opened for ventilation in hot weather. Allow one square foot of window for <br />each 10 square foot of floor space. <br />roosts: Lumber or branches can be used. They should be strong enough and mounted securely enough <br />to hold all birds. The surface should be rough for good grip with no splinters or sharp edges. For medium <br />sized birds, 2” or 4 “ flat or 1 1/2” diameter is best for foot comfort. The longer roost the better to <br />prevent competition. They should be set 18” from wall, 2 -‐3 feet off the floor. If mounted higher, rung <br />steps are needed spaced 8-‐12 inches apart. The addition of a dropping board underneath and elevated <br />roost will collect droppings and keep floor space below clean and inhabitable. <br />climate: Shelters should be kept at a comfortable temperature for the animals. “Minimum Temperature <br />55°(f) , maximum temperature 70°(F)”
The URL can be used to link to this page
Your browser does not support the video tag.
Print
Pages to print
Enter page numbers and/or page ranges separated by commas. For example, 1,3,5-12.
After downloading, print the document using a PDF reader (e.g. Adobe Reader).