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Spring and Fall CankerwormsPage 3of 3 <br />b.Examining foliage of several trees for the first signs of young cankerworms or their feeding. <br />2.Add 10 days to the date of hatch as determined in step one. This will be the best date for spraying. <br />3.Examine representative trees during the 10-day post-hatch period to determine if development has slowed <br />or quickened because of weather conditions. <br />4.Modify the spray date as necessary, keeping in mind that the worms should be less than 1/2 inch in length <br />and that at least 50% of the leaf surface should be intact. <br />5.Spray with one of the suggested materials. <br />Trunk Banding <br /> -- One widely-known method of treating cankerworms is the use of sticky barriers applied to tree <br />trunks. As the wingless females crawl up the trunk to lay eggs, they are trapped in these sticky bands. Despite the <br />publicity, there is little evidence that this method is worthwhile even in areas where most trees have been banded. <br />The possible exception would be on a tree that is isolated from other cankerworm-susceptible trees. <br />Although the practice is fine in theory, it generally fails because of one or more of the following reasons: (1) <br />people do not clean and renew the sticky material as often as the bands become crowded with moths; (2) people <br />fail to recognize and band for the two species (one moving up the tree in the fall, the other in the spring); (3) <br />unbanded trees in an area may produce young cankerworms that can readily blow to banded trees on silk threads. <br />Furthermore, the sticky material is expensive, messy to work with, and tends to mar the appearance of the trunk <br />for a long time. Thus, banding is not recommended. <br />Mark Ascerno, Head Entomology <br />Jeffrey Hahn, Professor, <br /> Entomology <br />Department of Entomology <br />College of Agricultural, Food and Environmental Sciences <br />http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/DG0876.html6/5/2009 <br /> <br />