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Things to consider trying to help avoid damaging your lawn: • Mow in stages, starting as high as the mower can reach. Gradually lower the blade so as not to shock or harm your grass. • Take a second pass on the same height to help break down the clippings. • Fertilize based on a soil test, such as soil tests from the U of M. These will guide you to fertilize according to what the grass and the soil need instead of going with a routine. • If you don't need to fertilize, just keeping the grass clippings on the lawn for a year is about the equivalent to one application of synthetic fertilizer. Mulching leaves in the fall into the lawn (as much as 50% leaf cover at a time) is another source of natural fertilizer. For many lawns this is sufficient, and when paired with a higher mowing height, the grass gets what it needs for going dormant over the winter. • If you must fertilize, first strive to do so in the late summer/early fall. This is the most efficient time to fertilize because the grass is preparing for winter, gathering nutrients in its roots. Fertilizer applied at this time will go right to the roots and will reduce the amount of extra that washes off the surface. Spring fertilization encourages more blade growth, which either leads to more mowing or the dilemma of a long lawn and not cutting more than 1/3 of the blade. • Mow higher all year long (3-4" height). Taller leaves in your lawn will help shade the soil surface, which can reduce weed germination. Longer grass means deeper grass roots, which means the grass can store more nutrients and retain more moisture. Increased moisture retention and better soil cover create healthier soil, a more resilient yard that can withstand drought, and benefit the larger watershed. • Strive for healthy soil through deep roots and introducing more perennial native vegetation. An excess of weeds is really a sign of unhealthy soil, as weeds are the plants that can specialize in those conditions. Increasing soil health is a long-term way to prevent an excess of weeds. • To build a lawn more conducive to Now Mow May, try integrating fine or tall fescues into your lawn, or explore switching to a Io-mow, no -mow, or bee lawn type of turf altogether. This will allow for flowering weeds such as dandelions yet will maintain a thick, lush cover. • If you're supportive of a few dandelions but don't want them to get too out of hand, and still want to keep long vegetation, try mowing extra high just to knock the seed heads off. Do this before the weeds have gone to seed to help reduce weed seeds in your soil's seed bank. For more information, checkout these links and resources: Mowing, yard waste, and other water -friendly home tips: www.viawmo.org/residents VLAWMO cost -share landscape grants: www.viawmo.org/grants Lawns to Legumes: http://bwsr.state.mn.us/121 Workshops, turf alternatives, and plant resources: www.bluethumb.org U of M Turfgrass Science: https://turf.umn.edu/ cityvadnaisheights.com Page 2 of 2 vlawmo.org